Florence

Day 4: Off to Florence!

 Although we were sad to leave Venice, we were also really excited to see Florence.  That morning, we left our hotel and took a boat to our waiting bus.  As we drove through the countryside, we saw the distant Alps and then the rolling hills of Tuscany.  Along the way, we stopped at a truck stop restaurant called “Autogrill.”  Surprisingly, this roadside stop honestly has better food than most actual restaurants in America… I’d eat there any day! 

We arrived in Florence a few hours later, and got settled into our hotel for the next 3 nights– the Hotel Accademia, located right next to the Medici Chapel and just a few short blocks from the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio and most of the other great sites of the city.  Try these Florence Webcams!

After putting down our things and picking up some gelato at the shop next door, Ferdi took us on a guided tour of this wonderful city, birthplace of the Renaissance!  It’s a good thing we had the headsets again, because there were thousands of people, and we wouldn’t have been able to hear Ferdi otherwise. 

Next, we walked over to the Galleria dell’ Accademia, home of Michelangelo’s “David”!!! I couldn’t take any pictures in there, so you’ll have to check them it out for yourself.  I have to say, though, that I love Michelangelo’s “Prisoners” just as much, if not more– amazingly, Michelangelo carved his statues from the front working straight back, like a figure emerging from a bath of milk (which is what he did with his clay models), rather than carving the whole basic shape and then adding details, like most sculptors.  So, if his ‘trapped’ form was sticking his arm out in front of his body, Michelangelo would first carve his hand and fingers, then his arm, then his body and face.  Seeing his statues in person was truly amazing!

That evening, we ate at a wonderful restaurant called “Giglio Rossi,” which I’m pretty sure translates to “Eat good food until you are no longer able to walk.”  Ah, but it was worth it!!! 

After dinner, a couple of us went to the Medieval Horrors Museum, conveniently located right under our hotel in an actual Medieval dwelling.  They weren’t kidding about the horrors part, though, and it might not be the best idea when your stomach is incredibly full.  They go into great detail about the various diseases and medical problems suffered by people living in the 1300’s…  Did I mention I’m glad I didn’t live back then?  Yeah, I’m much happier to visit in modern times!

Our chariot awaits! 

Hotel keys aren’t  meant to be taken along- they’re heavy and awkward so that you remember to leave them with the front desk

Uh oh– Ferdi, don’t tell me we’ve gotten to you already! This is only day four!

Playing Florentine “Where’s Ferdi?”  Ooh, ooh– I found him!

Something we noticed early on were the crowds– there were people everywhere in Florence!  Even more so than in Venice!  If you want to avoid some of the traffic, however, there’s a simple solution– go see some sights early in the morning, then take a break (if needed) later on in the day!  Here are a few pictures of some of Florence’s best sights at 7:30 or so in the morning and again Mid-Afternoon.  See what I mean? 

So, if you can stand getting up with the sun, you can have the whole town pretty much to yourself!

Day 5: Historic Florence & the Oltrarno

This morning, after stopping by a few sights at sunrise, we joined the group for a day of touring some of Florence’s most spectacular sites.  We started by meeting up with our guide, Simoné, who showed us some of the town’s history.  He then took us to the Torre dei Buondelmonti, a 11th Century structure filled with period artwork and architecture. 

Next, Simoné took us to see the Oltrarno (literally “the other side of the Arno River”) District.  First, we stopped off at Piazza Santo Spirito to take in the local ambiance and stop in one of the cafes.  Then, we took a tour of the Brancacci Chapel, which has amazing Renaissance frescoes by Masaccio & others. 

After our tour was done there, we were free to wander on our own for the rest of the day.  My family and I explored the Oltrarno for a while, then headed back across the river to Santa Croce Church, which has spectacular stained glass and other artwork, including a building filled with a collection of religious art from various time periods.   

When we left Santa Croce, we went to the Duomo Museum (it’s official name is the “Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore”, but there is no singing involved, so don’t get confused!), to see the original Bapistry Doors (the ones outside are replicas) and– one of my all-time favorites– Michelangelo’s “Pieta”.  

That evening, we met back up with the group for another wonderful dinner.  I have to say– the food in Florence was my favorite so far, and I was pretty sure Rome would have a hard time topping it!  I think maybe they should change the name of the tour to “Venice, Florence  Rome in 10 Million Calories”  - at least we were doing a lot of walking– it was a great excuse to keep eating that wonderful food!

Giberti’s ‘Gates of Paradise’ at the Bapistry

If putting a lock on the Ponte Vecchio & throwing the key in the river means your love will last forever, what does it mean when this guy cuts your lock off the next morning?

Medici Chapel at dawn

Our compliments to the Chef at Giglio Rosso!

Palazzo Vecchio

Simoné shows us around

The often-overlooked Santa Croce Church, where we found a grave with my Mom’s family’s name on it– I wonder if they’re ancestors? 

Mercado Centrale’s colorful array

Linda doesn’t care what they  say– ANY time is Cappuccino time!

Looks like maybe the Florence Scooter Club was having a meeting!   

Piazza Santo Spirito

Frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel

The Pieta… Amazing!

I kept thinking that THIS course was the last one, until the next one would arrive...

Day 6: The Uffizi & Other Local Wonders

Before we met up with the group for our first tour of the day, Brian and I decided to go and take another look at the Duomo before the crowds moved in.  This time, as we stood near the side door to the Basilica itself trying to figure out if it was open yet or not, one of the employees waved us through the door.  Taking this as a sign that we were welcome inside despite the early hour, we went in and stared upwards at the vast dome above us– a dome that could only be imagined when the rest of the church was built (they didn’t know how to do it, so left a gaping hole for a dome to be built later, when the technology was re-discovered).  We were just in the middle of pondering the deeper meaning of life as we gazed at the depictions of heaven and hell on Brunelleschi's dome when one of the other employees saw us and chased us out.  So, we started our last day in Florence by being kicked out of the Duomo.  Oops :O)

When we re-joined our group, we walked the short distance to the Uffizi Gallery, home to some of the World’s most spectacular art .  And, yes, I know I keep saying that, but seriously– who can look at Botticelli's “Birth of Venus” and think “Ho-hum, more silly art.”   You can’t avoid the simple fact that this art and architecture changed the world– I was in awe the whole time!  Anyways, the Uffizi is well worth the trip, though you don’t want to face the lines outside without a reservation.  Our guide for this tour was Symone (similar name to yesterday’s guide, but with no accent on the ‘e’, this denotes a female name).  Once again, her insight was wonderful, and really helped us to get the most out of the tour! 

After the guided tour of the Uffizi was over, we were free for the rest of the day, either to see more of the museum, or to venture elsewhere.  Most of us, though, took Ferdi up on his offer to show us the Mercato Centrale, a large covered market located near our hotel.  It was bustling with people and filled with the colors and smells of countless types of food, spices and other goods. 

My family  & I then split off and headed for the Duomo, where we  toured the inside and then climbed to the top.  As you make your way up, you get a chance to see the paintings on the dome up close!  Once you reach the top, you get a spectacular view of the city and, it seems, all of Tuscany.  As my parents enjoyed the view from there, Brian & I hiked back down, then up the Bell Tower so that we could get both a view of the Dome and a picture of our parents on top of it! 

With our legs aching just a little bit, we next walked back across the Arno and up the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo just in time for one of the most spectacular sunsets I’ve ever seen.  If you’re into views, this spot is easily worth the hike.  After watching the oranges and purples of the sunset fade into darkness, we ventured back down to find dinner in a small, family-run restaurant, then simply wandered around town, enjoying the atmosphere and the culture until we found ourselves back at our hotel.  

Next, we were off to Rome!

Symone at the Uffizi

The Ponte Vecchio & a great sunset!

‘Reflecting’ on the Torre Vecchio

To get clearer pics of  ceilings (like here in the Bapistry), try setting your camera on the ground  & set the timer

The (replica) David

The Duomo’s Dome-o